هنرهای کاربردی

هنرهای کاربردی

پژوهشی بر هنر بومی و کاربردی پارچه‌بافی سنتی (حوله‌بافی یا تُوبافی) روستای خُراشاد

نوع مقاله : مقاله علمی- پژوهشی

نویسندگان
1 دانشیار، گروه صنایع دستی، دانشکده صنایع دستی، دانشگاه هنر اصفهان، اصفهان، ایران.
2 دانش‌آموخته کارشناسی‌ارشد، گروه صنایع دستی، دانشکده صنایع دستی، دانشگاه هنر اصفهان، اصفهان، ایران.
چکیده
حوله‌بافی یا تُوبافی از رشته‌های نساجی سنتی بوده که قدمت تاریخی طولانی در خراسان جنوبی داشته‌است. این هنر- صنعت در اکثر روستاهای خراسان جنوبی مرسوم بوده و نقش مهمی در خودکفایی ساکنان آن ایفاء کرده‌است. امروزه نیز توبافی همانند گذشته با استفاده از دستگاه‌های سنتی دو یا چهار وردی و ابزارهای ساده صورت گرفته و دفتین زدن با حرکات منظم دست و پا منجر به بافت و تولید انواع پارچه‌های رنگی و به وجود آمدن نقوش مختلف بر روی پارچه شده‌است. بر این اساس این سؤال مطرح بوده که حوله‌بافی روستای خراشاد چگونه انجام شده و از چه ویژگی‌های زیبایی‌شناسانه و نقوشی استفاده شده‌است؟ هدف پژوهش حاضر، بررسی پارچه‌های دست‌بافت روستای خراشاد به‌منظور آشنایی با این هنر- صنعت و حفظ سنت‌های گذشته بوده‌است. پژوهش از نوع توصیفی- تحلیلی و روش گردآوری اطلاعات اسنادی و میدانی از طریق بررسی حوله‌های موجود و بازدید از منطقه و کارگاه‌های حوله بافی بوده‌است. نقوش پارچه‌های روستای خراشاد شامل دو نوع ساده و طرح‌دار بوده که طرح‌های چشم چَغوکی، گِنتی، کُلو، کج‌راه و خشتی از اسامی این نقوش بوده‌است. هنرمند بافنده با نگاه دقیق به طبیعت اطراف و بهره‌گیری از اشکال آن‌ها در ایجاد طرح جدید برای بافته‌ها استفاده نموده و نام‌گذاری آن‌ها متناسب با ذهنیت بافنده و کلمات و لغات محلی بوده‌است. بررسی‌ها نشان داده تنوع زیادی در طرح‌ها مشاهده نشده و به نظر می‌رسد هنرمند بافنده نقوش را به همان صورت که نسل‌به‌نسل منتقل شده، بافته است. یکی از دلایل این امر ساختار دستگاه توبافی بوده که اجازه تنوع و قابلیت انعطاف زیادی در نقش‌اندازی نداده‌است. خلاقیت، معطوف به، به‌کارگیری نخ‌های مختلف، ترکیب و استفاده از نخ‌های رنگی متنوع در حوله‌ها بوده‌است.
کلیدواژه‌ها
موضوعات

عنوان مقاله English

A Research on The Native and Practical Art of Traditional Woven Fabric (Towel Weaving or Tobafi) of Khorashad Village

نویسندگان English

Ali Reza Khajeh Ahmad Attari 1
Roya Nowrouzi 2
1 Associate Professor, Department of Handicrafts, Faculty of Handicrafts, Isfahan University of Art, Isfahan, Iran.
2 Master’s Graduate, Department of Handicrafts, Faculty of Handicrafts, Isfahan University of Art, Isfahan, Iran.
چکیده English

Traditional weaving is considered one of the industries that has a long history and has had a special place in Iranian culture from the distant past to the present. In addition to providing clothing and apparel, this art and industry has served as a platform for the creativity and artistic taste of weavers and artists in different eras. Handmade fabrics and traditional textiles in general are woven with the help of weaving machines of two-thread, four-thread, eight-thread to hand-made jacquard. The fabrics produced have various types such as zari, velvet, cashmere, ikat or daari, jajim, tobaf and other types of woolen, cotton and silk hand-woven fabrics that have been produced in different regions of Iran. Towel weaving or tobaf is one of the traditional textile fields that has a long history in South Khorasan. This art and industry has been common in most villages of South Khorasan and has played an important role in the self-sufficiency of its residents. Today, towel weaving is carried out as in the past using traditional two- or four-way machines and simple tools and daftin with regular hand and foot movements, which has led to the weaving and production of various colored fabrics and the creation of different patterns on the fabric. Accordingly, the question has been raised as to how towel weaving in the village of Khorashad was done and what features and patterns were used? The aim of the present research has been to examine the handwoven fabrics of the village of Khorashad in order to get acquainted with this art-industry and preserve it. The research conducted was of an analytical and descriptive type, and the field study has helped the authors in this research to analyze better and deeper. This analysis has included examining the patterns, finding their origins and naming them based on the indigenous culture of the region. Attention has also been paid to the type and method of weaving with regard to the structure of the towel weaving machine and the dependence of the patterns on the weaving method and the quality of the weaving machines, as well as recognizing the features and limitations of this art, and finally providing suggestions for weaving artists. The data collection in this study was carried out from two main sources. First, a study of library resources that dealt with identifying motifs, symbols, weaving methods and traditional arts of the region to extract key concepts related to the art of weaving; and second, a field study through photographing existing towel samples and visiting workshops, weavers and talking to artists in the village of Khorashad, which led to a better understanding of the personal experiences of the artists in the region and the current state of this art. The motifs of the fabrics of the village of Khorashad include two types of simple and patterned designs, which are named after the names of these motifs, such as Cheshm Chaghoki, Genti, Kulu, Kajrah and Kheshti. The weaver artist, by carefully looking at the surrounding nature and taking advantage of its shapes, created new designs for the weaves and named them in accordance with the weaver's mentality and local words and vocabulary. Studies have shown that there is not much variation in the designs and it seems that the artists have woven the designs in the same way that they have been passed down from generation to generation. One of the reasons for this is the structure of the loom, which does not allow for much variety and flexibility in the design. At the same time, creativity has been focused on using different yarns, combining and using various colored yarns in the towels.

کلیدواژه‌ها English

Khorashad
Native Art
Traditional Textile
Woven Fabric
Woven Towel

  • تاریخ دریافت 02 اردیبهشت 1404
  • تاریخ بازنگری 20 تیر 1404
  • تاریخ پذیرش 18 مرداد 1404